Indian footwear sellers and artisans are experiencing a surge in sales of traditional ‘Kolhapuri’ sandals, thanks to heightened nationalist sentiment resulting from Prada’s recent ‘sandal scandal.’ The controversy arose when Prada showcased designs reminiscent of these ethnic slippers at a Milan fashion show, sparking outrage among Indian artisans who created them. Without initially attributing the origins of the sandals, Prada had to acknowledge their inspiration from ancient Indian craftsmanship following significant public backlash.
In the wake of this incident, Kolhapuri sandals, which trace their history back to the 12th century, have gained international interest. E-commerce platforms like Shopkop reported a notable increase in sales, with founder Rahul Parasu Kamble observing his sales rise to 50,000 rupees in just three days, a substantial boost compared to average figures.
Social media has become a battleground for discussions around cultural appropriation, with memes and calls for due recognition echoing across the platform. In response, Prada has pledged to arrange meetings with local artisans and expressed intentions to potentially manufacture the sandals in India in collaboration with local craftspeople, if they proceed to commercialize the designs.
Given the growing luxury market in India, where brands like Prada are becoming synonymous with exclusivity, the incident presents a unique opportunity for Kolhapuri artisans. Currently made by around 7,000 craftsmen, the sandals are often paired with traditional Indian clothing, representing a blend of historical and modern fashion aesthetics.
Artisans like Ashok Doiphode are hopeful for positive changes, with the potential for partnerships with high-profile fashion brands to boost their earnings. He spends nine hours a day hand-stitching sandals, earning merely 400 rupees a pair. “If big companies like Prada come, craftsmen like me can get a good price,” Doiphode stated, reflecting the aspirations of many artisans who feel rejuvenated by the newfound attention on their work.
The Prada controversy not only revives interest in Kolhapuri sandals but also opens a dialogue on the importance of recognizing and respecting cultural heritage in global fashion trends, highlighting the artistry and rich history embedded in traditional crafts.
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