US designer Willy Chavarria has apologised after a collaborative shoe with Adidas Originals drew accusations of cultural appropriation for borrowing a traditional Oaxacan huarache design without meaningful involvement of the Indigenous community that created it.
The black moulded open-toe “Oaxaca Slip-On” — inspired by Villa Hidalgo Yalálag huaraches — was criticised after reports said the shoe was produced in China and released without consultation, credit or benefit to Oaxacan artisans. Mexico’s President Claudia Sheinbaum publicly condemned the move, saying large companies often take designs from Indigenous communities and that authorities are reviewing legal options to support those affected. Mexico’s deputy culture minister, Marina Núñez, said Adidas had contacted Oaxacan officials to discuss “restitution to the people who were plagiarised.”
Chavarria, who served as Calvin Klein’s senior vice president of design until 2024 and now runs his own label, issued a statement saying he was “deeply sorry” the design was not developed “in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.” He described Oaxaca as a living culture whose name “is not just a word” and acknowledged the project fell short of the respect and collaboration the Zapotec community of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag deserves. Promotional images for the slip-on have been removed from both Chavarria’s and the brand’s social channels.
Adidas responded by saying it “recognizes and values the cultural richness of Mexico’s Indigenous communities” and has requested talks about how to “repair the damage.” Mexican officials and Chavarria have indicated a willingness to pursue respectful dialogue with the community.
Context and wider relevance
This episode follows a pattern in fashion where traditional crafts are borrowed by major brands without clear attribution or benefit-sharing; a recent controversy over Prada’s sandals similarly prompted public backlash and led to talks between the brand and local artisans. Such incidents have sometimes produced positive outcomes — heightened attention to traditional makers, a surge in artisan sales, and commitments from fashion houses to collaborate rather than appropriate.
Why this matters
Cultural appropriation in design raises both ethical and economic questions: communities that originate techniques and motifs frequently see little recognition or financial reward when those forms are commercialised at scale. Beyond reputational damage for designers and brands, outcomes can include legal challenges, demands for restitution, and calls for systemic changes in how global fashion sources and credits traditional knowledge.
Hopeful path forward
The current controversy offers an opening for genuine partnerships that could restore recognition and provide tangible benefits to Oaxacan artisans. Constructive next steps could include co-design agreements, fair compensation or licensing, production collaborations that support local manufacturing, and formal acknowledgement of origin on products and marketing. If handled transparently and respectfully, the situation could lead to new economic opportunities for Villa Hidalgo Yalálag and set a stronger precedent for how mainstream fashion engages with Indigenous cultural heritage.
Brief summary
Willy Chavarria apologised after his Adidas Originals “Oaxaca Slip-On,” modelled on Oaxacan huaraches, was criticised for being developed without the input or credit of the Zapotec community in Villa Hidalgo Yalálag. Mexican officials and Adidas are pursuing discussions about restitution; the incident echoes recent fashion disputes over traditional footwear and underscores calls for ethical, collaborative approaches to using Indigenous designs.
Additional comments and suggestions for publication
– Suggested headline: Willy Chavarria apologises after Adidas shoe sparks cultural appropriation row over Oaxacan huaraches
– Suggested tags: fashion, cultural appropriation, Oaxaca, Indigenous rights, Adidas, Willy Chavarria
– Suggested image caption: Oaxacan artisan tradition at the centre of the controversy over the “Oaxaca Slip-On.”
– Suggested follow-up reporting: confirm whether formal restitution talks lead to a co-design or licensing agreement; interview representatives from Villa Hidalgo Yalálag about their expectations; track any legal steps Mexican authorities pursue.
– Practical note for brands: including provenance statements, community agreements and benefit-sharing clauses early in the design process can prevent harm and create mutually beneficial partnerships.
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