Whispers of Heritage: The Hidden Temple Ruins of Serea

Despite being far from their homeland of India and enduring significant oppression under the indenture system, the Girmitiyas remained steadfast in their religious beliefs and cultural practices. Their hardships only fueled their resolve to ensure the survival and continuity of their descendants.

The Sunday Times team ventured along the dusty Sawani-Serea Road to Serea village in the verdant Naitasiri province, where they explored the outskirts that once housed a Hindu temple established by Girmitiyas in the early 1900s. They had the chance to speak with Sarojni Devi, a descendant of those original settlers, who expressed her pride in her heritage and her life on the land cultivated by her ancestors.

To honor local customs, the team performed a sevusevu to request permission from the traditional chief, Na Gone Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi, who graciously agreed to guide them to the temple ruins and the home of Ms. Devi.

Located about 500 meters from Serea village, near a thriving dalo farm owned by a local named Raynil Kumar, the remnants of the Hindu temple were once a focal point for worship among the Girmitiyas who migrated from Kiuva in Tailevu. Ratu Viliame noted that the temple is possibly one of Serea’s oldest structures, recalling how it served as a gathering place for the Indo-Fijian community to practice their traditions.

The team made a brief trek through dense shrubs to reach the site, where the tranquility of the valley, surrounded by mountains, evoked a sense of spirituality. Ratu Viliame explained that as Indo-Fijians began building their own homes and personal shrines, communal worship at the temple declined, leading to its current state of disrepair.

Sarojni Devi, also known as Tinai Vaseva, resides nearby and reflected on the challenges encountered by the Girmitiyas. Born in 1947 in Naitata, Navua, she married Shiu Narayan, a dairy farmer who had settled in Serea. Together, they raised five children while navigating the realities of life in a new land where many faced deceit and hardship upon their arrival.

She emphasized the gratitude felt by her family for the acceptance they have experienced from the indigenous Fijians, stating that they coexist as one community despite their different backgrounds.

Throughout the years, Tinai Vaseva and her family thrived primarily through farming, particularly dairy production. Her husband established a successful dairy operation in the 1970s, which allowed them to improve their living conditions and support their children’s education.

Following her husband’s passing in 1987, she continued to run the dairy farm with help from local iTaukei landowners. Her children have pursued various paths, with her eldest son now managing the farm and her younger son owning a grocery shop in Serea.

Today, at 78 years old, she remains committed to preserving her family’s legacy on their land. She expressed her deep connection to Serea, emphasizing how vital the community has been in her life and how much she cherishes her home.

While acknowledging that historical narratives can vary, the intention is to share a singular story without causing division. Alternative perspectives are welcomed for publication.

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