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Turtle Sanctuary: Unearthing The Secrets of ‘The Belly Button of a Lady’

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This week, we revisit one of Ana Madigibuli’s adventures, highlighting her exploration of a turtle sanctuary located on a sand cay discovered by Captain James Wilson in the 1700s. Duff Reef, situated off Vanuabalavu in Lau, boasts an impressive 11,250 km of picturesque reef, serving as a significant marine biodiversity hotspot.

The entire underwater structure, traditionally known as Cakau Galu—meaning “the silent reef”—is under the customary ownership of the Yavusa Qalitu from Mavana Village. This name reflects the reef’s peaceful position within a thriving marine ecosystem amidst the deep sea passage. The reef forms a boundary for the Yavusa Qalitu’s traditional fishing grounds.

Spokesman Mesake Koroi recounts how their ancestors navigated these waters, discovering Cakau Galu and establishing their community in Mavana. He emphasizes the blessing of their customary ownership over these rich fishing areas, which remains influential today.

Reaching the reef involves a two-hour boat ride from Mavana Village or an hour-and-a-half seaplane trip from Nausori International Airport. The reef is home to a five-hectare sand cay, declared a turtle sanctuary by the Yavusa Qalitu and its partners. The cay features fine white sands and a few boulders, shaped over time by ocean waves and tidal currents. Due to harsh weather conditions, the only vegetation present are two coconut trees, as previous attempts to plant more have not been successful.

The cay, recently renamed “Nodrai Vicovico a Marama,” or “the belly button of a lady,” serves exclusively as a nesting site for green turtles, renowned for having numerous nests along its shores. It is essential to note that the cay does not serve as a foraging ground for turtles; rather, its composition creates ideal conditions for nesting.

The historical significance of Duff Reef is also noteworthy. Named after Captain James Wilson’s ship, the Duff, which traversed these waters in the late 18th century, the reef has become a focus for researchers due to its biodiversity and historical ties. Captain Wilson was instrumental in exploring many islands in the Pacific and documented his experiences in his publication “A Missionary Voyage to the Southern Pacific Ocean” in 1799.

The commitment of the Yavusa Qalitu to protect Duff Reef as a marine protected area reflects their dedication to preserving their cultural heritage and natural resources for future generations. Mr. Koroi states that while it poses logistical challenges to maintain the sanctuary, the community’s resolve to safeguard their iqoliqoli is unwavering, contributing positively to Fiji’s fight against climate change.

Marine biologists continue to show interest in this preserved area, further supporting the idea that such initiatives not only conserve marine life but also reinforce the community’s bond with nature and heritage. Through their actions, the Yavusa Qalitu showcases a powerful example of how indigenous knowledge and modern conservation efforts can coalesce, offering hope for a sustainable future.

The rich historical narrative combined with environmental stewardship at Duff Reef offers a compelling case for preservation, highlighting the importance of protecting these beautiful ecosystems for future generations.


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