The recent ban on fashion advertisements featuring models perceived as “unhealthily thin” has ignited concerns among industry experts about a potential resurgence of the super skinny trend. This trend, reminiscent of the 1990s and early 2000s, has been largely countered in recent years by the body positivity movement that promotes acceptance of diverse body types.
Major retailers such as Zara, Next, and Marks & Spencer have faced scrutiny, leading to the withdrawal of certain advertisements after they were deemed to feature models who appeared excessively thin. The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) indicated a significant rise in complaints regarding such representations, reporting that weekly complaints jumped from around five or six in early 2025 to over 20 following recent ad bans.
While the total number of complaints remains modest, the ASA is actively monitoring these trends as part of its commitment to prevent unhealthy body images from being portrayed as desirable. In 2024, the ASA received 61 complaints related to models’ weight but found grounds for investigation in only eight of those cases.
Charli Howard, a model and activist, warns that the fashion industry may be on the brink of returning to the so-called “heroin chic” aesthetic. This term, which emerged in the early 1990s, refers to an aesthetic characterized by extremely thin models with sharp facial features. Howard expressed concern that high street advertisements contribute to harmful narratives comparable to those proliferating on social platforms, which sometimes glorify extreme thinness.
Signs of this troubling trend can be seen on platforms such as TikTok, where the hashtag “skinnytok,” associated with content promoting thinness, has been blocked due to its potentially harmful influence. Howard emphasized the distinction between naturally thin individuals and the hiring of models that appear unwell due to deliberate marketing choices, suggesting that such practices are deeply troubling.
In response to the backlash, brands have defended themselves by stating that the models were depicted in a way that may have emphasized their slender figures unintentionally through styling and lighting choices. Both Marks & Spencer and Next have argued that their modeling decisions were aligned with showcasing confidence, not promoting unhealthy body ideals.
The ASA’s findings reflect ongoing issues within advertising standards and public health, highlighting the delicate balance needed in how body images are presented in the media. As conversations continue, the emphasis remains on fostering healthy body image representations and supporting the values championed by the body positivity movement.
This situation embodies a larger societal dialogue on body image and health standards within the fashion industry, revealing a need for vigilance against regressive trends while fostering inclusive representations that enhance self-acceptance and empowerment.

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