The Girmitiyas, despite being far from India and enduring harsh oppression under the indenture system, remained steadfast in their religious beliefs and cultural practices. Their struggles only strengthened their resolve to preserve their heritage for future generations.
A team from the Sunday Times recently traveled along the dusty Sawani-Serea Road to the village of Serea in Naitasiri province. They explored a site on the outskirts of the village that was once home to a Hindu temple established by Girmitiyas in the early 1900s. The team spoke with Sarojni Devi, a descendant of the original settlers, who feels a deep connection to the land her ancestors farmed.
To seek permission to visit the temple ruins, the team presented a sevusevu to Na Gone Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi, who graciously accepted and guided them to the temple site and Ms. Devi’s home. Roughly 500 meters from Serea, nestled alongside a thriving dalo farm owned by Raynil Kumar, lie the remnants of a modest Hindu temple that served as a primary worship space for the Girmitiyas who moved to Serea from Kiuva in Tailevu.
Ratu Viliame noted the temple’s historical significance, recalling its existence since his birth and its role as a gathering place for the Indo-Fijian community. He emphasized the sense of unity that the temple fostered, allowing the community to preserve their traditions.
After parking near the main road, the team embarked on a short 15-minute trek through dense vegetation to reach the temple site. The shrine, situated in a valley surrounded by mountains, evoked a sense of mysticism, highlighting its former purpose as a space for gratitude and homage.
However, as more Indo-Fijians built individual homes and shrines, communal worship at the temple waned, leading to its current dilapidated state. A devoted Hindu, Sarojni Devi, originally from Naitata, now enjoys life in Serea’s tranquil highlands.
The temple was reportedly built by a European settler known as “Misi Vilive” who recognized the importance of enabling his Indian workers to maintain their cultural practices. Once a vibrant center for religious gatherings, the temple illustrates how faith can shape community identity and values.
Now overgrown with wild plants, the structure stands as a reminder of its storied past. Sarojni, affectionately called Tinai Vaseva, reflects on her life in Serea after marrying dairy farmer Shiu Narayan. She recalls her family’s challenging journey and their contributions to Fiji’s social fabric.
At 78, she expresses gratitude for the acceptance received from the indigenous Fijians, emphasizing the sense of unity in their shared lives. Farming, especially dairy, has been the family’s main livelihood, especially after Shiu secured land for their dairy business in 1972, generating significant income at the time.
Despite Shiu’s passing in 1987, Tinai continued his legacy with the help of local landowners and her son, Janen, who took over the family business. Today, her family is involved in various enterprises, contributing to their community.
Tinai Vaseva cherishes her home in Serea, expressing love for the land that has nurtured her family for generations. She acknowledges the support of the local community, affirming her deep-rooted connections and commitment to honoring her late husband’s memory through their home and farm.