Fijian folklore is rich with tales of two ancient women known as Marama Rua or Yalewa Kalou, who are believed to possess supernatural powers. These figures continue to inspire local legends in various villages across the country. In Tukavesi, a village located in the Cakaudrove district, the community holds onto a traditional story about two “yalewa tevoro” (female devils). This tale recounts how one of these women was captured in the highland forest and subsequently married to a local man.
To explore this captivating narrative, a team from The Sunday Times ventured into the lush jungle surrounding Tukavesi, situated in Buca Bay. They aimed to document the locations tied to the story and gather insights from village elders. The team sought permission from the village chief, Ravouvou, through a sevusevu ceremony, to visit traditional sites and the dwelling of the yalewa tevoro. It is believed that ancestors of the current Tukavesi residents first encountered these beings when their village was initially located at Nakorotu, a site a few kilometers inland. The original inhabitants of the region settled on a mountain called Navaki, where they constructed an impregnable war fort before gradually moving toward the coast.
In a recounting of events, Tukavesi headman Selesitino Vosayaco revealed that during the village’s time at Nakorotu, local men were baffled by the mysterious disappearance of their crops, particularly bananas and plantains. Frustrated by the ongoing theft, one villager decided to guard the plantation. While hiding, he heard the giggles and high-pitched voices of women approaching the garden. To his astonishment, he spotted two women gleefully picking and eating the ripe fruits. The men eventually followed their trail, which led into the depths of the forest.
After some digging, the villagers discovered a crude burrow filled with fruit peels. The trapped women, terrified, begged for their lives and promised the villagers supernatural powers if released. However, the villagers refused their offers. Ultimately, one woman vanished while the other was taken back to the village.
The captured woman later married a villager and had two children—a son and a daughter—who inherited both human and supernatural traits. The siblings, Sera Poleni and Te Para, exhibited extraordinary abilities that were often met with awe and fear. Sera, in particular, was known for her unusual behaviors, such as diving underwater and surfacing with fish in her mouth. Meanwhile, her brother had the remarkable ability to handle boiling substances without getting burned.
As the story unfolds, it becomes apparent that while Sera Poleni and her brother were endowed with special powers, they faced social challenges. Over time, their mother mysteriously disappeared. Accounts suggest that her husband was enraged when their child was left unclean, leading to a confrontation that resulted in the mother’s sudden disappearance. The family’s lineage did not continue; the siblings died without children, possibly due to the spread of Christianity in the area, which overshadowed old beliefs.
The narrative of Sera Poleni, passed down through generations, is a testament to the village’s rich heritage and its ties to the surrounding landscape. Tukavesi Village, which serves as the government station for Buca Bay, is accessible via a three-hour bus ride from Savusavu town.