Nestled on a 2700ft high escarpment in Nadarivatu, overlooking Fiji’s Northern Coast, remnants of a colonial administrative center mark a significant piece of history. Once a bustling hill station during colonial times, this area has captured the interest of many visitors due to its rich historical legacy and natural beauty.
Last month, a team from The Sunday Times was privileged to cover the opening of the Nadarivatu Forest Park, where they discovered the area’s deep-rooted history. The park is located near an old administrative center established in the late 1800s by Adolph Brewster, a pivotal figure in the region’s development. Brewster served as the Governor’s Commissioner for the provinces of Colo North and Colo East and was instrumental in promoting the hill station concept.
Initially envisioned as a colonial sanatorium by Sir John Bates Thurston, Fiji’s fifth governor, the development of Nadarivatu into a hill station progressed after his death. Although Brewster stepped in to establish this vision, much of the area now lies in disrepair, with only a few colonial rest houses still standing, some of which are occupied while others remain unlivable.
Among the remaining structures are Brewster’s own residence and the home of William Ernest Goodsir, a prominent local businessman. Goodsir’s house has been transformed into the Stone Bowl Lodge, where travelers can experience a rustic retreat amid the lush highlands, replete with misty mountain views. Historical accounts, including an article from Pacific Islands Monthly from August 1958, highlight Goodsir’s role as a deputy-mayor of Suva and his contributions to the timber industry.
The area is not just home to individual colonial structures but was also the headquarters for a small detachment of the Armed Native Constabulary of Fiji. Brewster described the original camp layout in his book “The Hilltribes of Fiji,” emphasizing its historical significance to the area.
Visitors can still observe remnants of the past, including old tennis posts and rest houses that tell a story of a thriving community in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The hiking paths leading into Nadarivatu evoke nostalgia as one walks where horses and bullocks once trod.
As local efforts continue to restore and maintain these historical sites, there is hope that Nadarivatu can regain its former prominence, allowing future generations to connect with Fiji’s rich colonial history. The ongoing preservation of this region underscores the importance of remembering and honoring the stories of those who shaped the legacy of Nadarivatu. With care and attention, these historical treasures can serve as a bridge linking the past with the vibrant cultural heritage of today’s Fiji.
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