The Girmitiyas, despite being far from their homeland of India and enduring severe oppression through the indenture system, steadfastly maintained their religious beliefs and cultural traditions. Their hardships strengthened their resolve to ensure the survival of their heritage for future generations.
A team from The Sunday Times journeyed along the dusty Sawani-Serea Road to Serea village, located in the verdant Naitasiri province, to visit the remnants of a Hindu temple established by Girmitiyas in the early 1900s. During the visit, the team interviewed Sarojni Devi, a descendant of those early settlers, who embraces her roots and considers herself a proud resident of Serea.
The team offered a sevusevu, a traditional Fijian gesture of respect, seeking consent from the land’s traditional chief, Na Gone Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi. He graciously agreed to guide them to the temple ruins and Ms. Devi’s home.
Approximately 500 meters from Serea village, on the edge of a thriving dalo farm owned by local farmer Raynil Kumar, lies the remains of a small Hindu temple. According to residents, this temple served as a primary worship site for Girmitiyas who migrated to Serea from Kiuva in Tailevu.
Chief Ratu Viliame revealed that the temple might be one of the oldest structures in Serea. He recalled, “When I was born, which was a long time ago, the temple was already here. I remember how it was a place for Indo-Fijians to gather and worship.” He emphasized the strong sense of community that flourished around the temple, where traditional and religious customs were preserved and respected.
After a brief 15-minute walk through thick undergrowth, the team arrived at the remnants of the shrine. The site, nestled in a valley and encircled by mountains, evokes a feeling of mysticism and reflects why it was chosen as a gathering place for gratitude and homage to nature and community.
As the Indo-Fijian population established individual homes and shrines, they began to drift away from communal worship at the temple. Gradually, the temple fell into disrepair. A devoted Hindu, Sarojni Devi resides nearby and enjoys life in the Naitasiri highlands. Originally from Naitata, Navua, she moved to Serea after marrying a dairy farmer named Shiu Narayan.
It is believed the temple was constructed by a European settler known locally as “Misi Vilive,” who recognized the importance of allowing his Indian workers to continue their religious practices. In its prime, the temple functioned as a central hub of worship for Hindu farmers in Serea.
Elevated vegetation now conceals the concrete structure, but it remains a symbol of the community’s past. Sarojni, affectionately known to locals as Tinai Vaseva, has lived in Serea since marrying Shiu in 1968. Together, they raised five children and enjoyed a fruitful farming life.
Reflecting on the Girmitiyas’ trials, Tinai Vaseva shared her family’s story, recounting how her ancestors were deceived into leaving India, endured a grueling journey, and faced harsh conditions in a foreign land. While some returned to India, most chose to remain and integrate into Fijian society.
“We are grateful for the love and acceptance we have received over the years. Here in Naitasiri, even though we are two races, we are one people,” she shared.
Farming, especially dairy, has been the mainstay of her family’s livelihood. Shiu secured a 100-acre plot in 1972 and started their dairy farm, yielding significant income that supported their children’s education and home improvements. Shiu passed away in 1987, but Tinai has kept the farm running with help from local iTaukei landowners.
Her family has since evolved, with one son managing a grocery store in Serea, another daughter living in Canada, and a younger daughter residing with her. At 78, Tinai continues to honor her late husband’s legacy, emphasizing her deep connection to Serea.
“The people of Serea are my family too. Despite the challenges, they have always treated me as one of their own. I love Serea. This is my home, and it has sustained my family for generations,” she expressed with a smile.