In the early 1800s, when Europeans first settled in Fiji, indigenous Fijians shared that the Nakama hot springs in Savusavu were ancient, having existed for as long as anyone could remember. These geothermal springs have served various purposes over generations, primarily allowing for food to be cooked without the need for traditional fire.
Recently, a team from The Sunday Times set out to experience the local tradition by preparing a simple breakfast at Nakama. A taxi ride costing three dollars took them to this serene spot along Nakama Road, which also leads to the scenic Hot Springs Hotel, offering beautiful views of the clear harbor below.
As they approached the hot springs, the taxi driver remarked, “You haven’t been to Savusavu if you haven’t been to these hot springs. If I were you, I’d cook something in the hot pools to truly understand what we’ve enjoyed for so long.” Unbeknownst to him, the team carried eggs, tea buns, Tang juice, cold water, and baked beans in a shopping bag.
Upon arrival, they spotted a pot already steaming in one of the hot pools, covered with a brown sack and weighed down by a stone. Nearby, locals prepared to boil breadfruit to accompany their meal of tinned fish with tomatoes and onions. With the sun climbing higher, the team chose a thatched shed to begin their breakfast preparations.
The hot springs have undergone a transformation compared to previous years when they were often neglected. Today, they are well-maintained, featuring landscaped areas, stone walls, signage, and comfortable seating for visitors.
Historical records indicate that the first scientific account of the Savusavu hot springs was documented by American geologist James D. Dana in 1864, based on observations from the United States Exploring Expedition. He described the springs as having several boiling fountains, while later visitors noted their heights and activity levels, suggesting they behaved like geysers.
In recent years, the hot springs have not exhibited the dramatic spouting observed in earlier accounts, although their bubbling continues to draw attention. During the team’s visit, their eggs cooked in about ten minutes, complemented by other dishes prepared by locals using the geothermal resources.
Local residents express pride in the hot springs, seeing them as an eco-friendly cooking source that saves money and energy. Ratu Kamikamica remarked, “We use them to boil root crops and foods that require longer cooking times. They are important for our tourism too.”
With enhancements made possible by the Commonwealth Local Government Fund, Nakama hot springs have emerged as a primary natural attraction in the region. Visitors can see steam rising from various spots, enhancing the mystical atmosphere of the area.
In addition to local use, several eateries in Savusavu capitalize on the springs for cooking, integrating the natural resource into their operations for dishes like beef bone soup, known for its rich flavors and tender meat due to slow cooking with geothermal heat.
Families often turn to the hot springs as a reliable cooking method when their gas or kerosene supplies run low. The springs represent both a sustainable resource and a blessing for the community.
Recent surveys have identified additional hot springs near Savusavu, and experts acknowledge the area’s geothermal activity due to its proximity to major fault lines, which allows for heated water to rise to the surface.
This account serves to celebrate the cultural and historical significance of the Nakama hot springs and their continuing role in the local community.