A historical site just outside of Labasa serves as a reminder of Fiji’s colonial past. An old building, once a thriving supermarket, now stands quietly in Vulovi, preserving the architectural and cultural heritage of colonial Fiji. It is located opposite All-Saints Secondary School.
To appreciate the significance of this old structure, it is important to explore Fiji’s history during the colonial era. The British Colonial Administration established its presence in Fiji in the late 19th Century, significantly transforming the islands’ political, social, and economic framework. Fiji became a British colony in 1874, prompting the colonial government to develop necessary infrastructure for governance and economic growth, including government stations, communication systems, and commercial hubs.
The development of urban areas, especially Labasa, began in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, shaping it into a vital regional center. The establishment of the Colonial Sugar Refining Company Mill, now known as the Fiji Sugar Corporation, marked a turning point for Labasa, which began to flourish after the Labasa Sugar Mill opened in 1894.
The company, founded in Sydney in 1855, played a pioneering role in the sugar industries of both Australia and Fiji, becoming one of the world’s largest sugar producers. Each sugar mill was accompanied by a company town and a railroad network, with four of the six mills still under the ownership of the Fiji Sugar Corporation today.
Prominent businessman Paul Jaduram explained that CSR played a crucial role in shaping Fiji. He noted that as more Europeans settled in the area, they established Morris Hedstrom in Vulovi to cater to their trade, primarily in Vaturekuka. At that time, local residents were not permitted in the shops; the MH Supermarket served exclusively the European population.
This revelation about the historical context was surprising to Jaduram, as he hadn’t learned about it in school. He added that in Vaturekuka, the Europeans built a post office, police station, magistrate’s court, and various licensing authorities.
Jaduram shared memories of riding bicycles to pay for different licenses while the marketplace was located near the FSC boiler. The expatriates working at the mill either lived in the FSC compound or in Vaturekuka. The location of Vaturekuka on a hill allowed the Europeans to monitor their surroundings, including the activities of the laborers in the fields.
In response to the exclusion of locals from European establishments, Jaduram’s grandfather, Jagannath, and his brother, Nanhu, decided to establish a general store to serve all races. These men arrived in Fiji as girmitiyas in the late 19th Century and aimed to provide services to the wider community. Jaduram noted that their shop was established where Hotel Takia currently stands and offered a diverse range of products.
Their entrepreneurial efforts contributed significantly to the gradual development of Labasa Town, which was established in 1922. Initially, homes predated shops, with roads that were unpaved and prone to flooding during high tides.
Jaduram reflected on the humble beginnings of the shops in Labasa, which often resembled shacks. Goods were transported from Suva to the jetty, where they were then conveyed to the market using bullock carts. After marrying, Jaduram’s father took over the family business, rebranding it in 1968 before modernizing the buildings.
Through the family’s efforts, Labasa Town evolved to include a variety of shops and services, including tailor shops, a theater built by Jaduram’s grandfather, and a photography business.
Today, Labasa stands as the largest town in Vanua Levu, with a population of 49,369 according to the latest census in 2017, and has continued to grow and modernize with new shopping developments like Damodar City.
For readers interested in learning more about Labasa’s history, the North Bureau team at The Fiji Times will be publishing additional stories on the topic.