Illustration of The old ruins of Namena prison

Uncovering the Forgotten Prison: Namena’s Secret History

The first prison in Fiji was established in the old port town of Levuka, Ovalau in the latter half of the 19th century. Initially, it may have been a makeshift facility for those who disobeyed authority in a largely lawless town known for heavy rum drinkers and beachcombers. The first official prison was set up in 1874 after the Deed of Cession was signed. Historical records from The Fiji Times indicate that the initial prison was surrounded by an 8-foot wooden fence, located across an open square from Totoga, the first police station. Besides main prisons, the British established small lockup facilities, known locally as “lokamu,” where a magistrate was stationed. These started as simple spaces for detention but were gradually replaced by stone structures built by inmates as punishment. One such lockup can be found in the Village of Naburenivalu (formerly Namena Village), with stone and crushed coral walls and an old stone jetty still standing. Though the exact construction date is unclear, records show it closed in 1888.

The Sunday Times team recently visited Namena to explore the remains of its 19th-century prison and jetty. The site, called Nasese, was about a kilometer from the shoreline in the 1800s. Despite the gloomy start to the day, the sun emerged as the team neared Korovou. The village was in mourning over the passing of its chief, Tui Nawainovo Ratu Filimoni Verebalavu. Namena’s lockup was styled similarly to temporary detention centers in England and Wales, used where official prisons were not easily accessible.

Jese Mamanavesi, Naburenivalu’s turaga ni koro, guided the team through the mangrove-fringed mudflats to the old jetty, an area not commonly visited. Adi Lusiana Canavanua Verebalavu-Senibulu, the village’s senior member, hypothesized that Namena was chosen due to its administrative role, its alliance with Bau, and the availability of construction resources. The British official at the time was Magistrate Eastgate, whose house was built from Oregon timber with a thatched roof. Eastgate reportedly had the first tap installed in a Fijian village.

The stone jetty, though now vulnerable to the sea and climate change, was built with impressive craftsmanship. From the sea, the team trekked through a forest once lined with many mango trees planted by prisoners. Only three remain today. Historical records note that Suva’s first gaol was established in 1887 after taking over a mental hospital, the precursor to today’s St Giles Psychiatric Hospital.

The name of Namena’s prison, Nasese, loosely translates to “foolish or wrong,” reflecting its purpose as a place for those who committed wrongful acts. The first prisons in Fiji were simple huts behind reed fences, with modern accommodations only introduced around 1912-1913. The official prison at Levuka marked the beginning, evolving to various locations as settlements grew.

Prisoners built and maintained the lockup facilities, including Magistrate Eastgate’s oversight from his house. He reportedly married a local woman, with descendants still in the village. The prisoners often worked in Levuka and returned by boat to Namena. The ruins of the old village, including an old church foundation, can still be seen.

Villagers moved inland after Namena to what is now Naburenivalu, where a frangipani plant was planted by the first prisoners at the new site. The village continues to maintain the old prison site. Adi Lusiana hopes that the prison and jetty could be preserved as tourist attractions, sharing their historical significance with future generations. Naburenivalu today consists of a village and six settlements, comprising 425 people and 83 households, organized into seven mataqali and five yavusa.

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