During Fiji’s colonial era, bananas played a significant role in boosting trade and commerce in the Naitasiri province. The Sunday Times team recently visited the village of Serea, located amid the verdant landscapes of Naitasiri, after a challenging one-and-a-half hour journey along the bumpy Sawani-Serea Road.
Upon arrival, the team presented a traditional sevusevu to Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi, the Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, which allowed them to explore and document the village’s historical landmarks. Ratu Viliame himself guided the tour, sharing insights about the area’s commercial past.
One notable remnant of Serea’s history is the decaying structure of a once-thriving village enterprise established by Sukh Lal, the son of a Girmitiya. Ratu Viliame shared that Sukh Lal, who lost his mother as an infant, was raised by an iTaukei family from Nawaisomo and became deeply integrated into the community.
Sukh Lal eventually settled in Serea, where his small shop grew into a prosperous business during the early 1900s, driven by the booming banana trade in Naitasiri. As Ratu Viliame recalled, numerous cooperative businesses owned significant banana plantations across the region, with transportation via the river being the preferred method at that time.
Serea’s strategic location along the Sawani-Serea Road and near the Wainimala River made it a vital stop for travelers and farmers. An enormous raintree once stood near Sukh Lal’s shop, serving as a landing for rafts transporting fresh bananas. Transactions between farmers and the shop became commonplace, with locals spending their earnings on various goods offered by Sukh Lal.
The shop stocked a wide range of items, including groceries, diesel, and even had a liquor section, alongside a billiard table. A tailor named Patel, originally from Bombay (now Mumbai), also operated from Sukh Lal’s premises, gaining a reputation for crafting exquisite clothing.
According to Ratu Viliame, this period represented a golden age for the province, rich in resources and activity. However, after Fiji’s independence in 1970, rapid development shifted the dynamics of the area. The banana trade began to decline as new roads were constructed, leading many to leave the agricultural sector for urban areas, causing farms to become neglected.
Moreover, excessive use of fertilizers and chemicals adversely affected soil quality, making it difficult for banana production to maintain its former strength. As transportation shifts occurred, Serea’s prominence as a commercial hub also diminished, affecting Sukh Lal’s business. He eventually passed the reins to his sons before relocating to Tailevu, where he later died.
Ratu Peni Rotacikalou, Ratu Viliame’s son, accompanied the team to the riverbank, where the landing spot stood until last year when the tree was cut down to carve a lali for the village church. A local carpenter took on the project, which is nearing completion.
Though the Wainimala River no longer serves as the main transport route, it continues to provide for the people of Serea and Naitasiri. Ratu Peni expressed concern over how developments like gravel extraction and climate change have harmed the river’s ecosystem, noting a significant decline in both the river’s width and its wildlife.
In spite of these challenges, villagers remain committed to preserving their pristine environment through sustainable farming practices and environmental stewardship. While Sukh Lal’s shop may be a thing of the past, it symbolizes the unity and prosperity of different communities in Fiji, demonstrating how collaboration can lead to success even in remote areas.