When Europeans arrived in Fiji in the early 1800s, they were informed by the indigenous Fijians that the Nakama hot springs in Savusavu had existed for countless generations. These geothermal springs have traditionally been utilized for various purposes, primarily for cooking food without the need for fire.
Recently, The Sunday Times team traveled to Nakama to enjoy a simple breakfast, experiencing this local culinary method that Savusavu residents have adopted for years. A taxi ride costing three dollars took the team from town to the scenic Nakama Road, which also serves as the access route to the Hot Springs Hotel, perched elegantly atop a hillside with stunning views of the harbor.
As the team approached the hot springs, their taxi driver remarked, “You haven’t fully experienced Savusavu if you haven’t visited these hot springs. If I were you, I’d try cooking something in the hot pools to get a taste of what we enjoy regularly.” Unbeknownst to the driver, the team had brought along eggs, tea buns, Tang juice sachets, cold water, and a can of baked beans.
Upon arrival, they discovered a pot already simmering in one of the hot springs, covered with a sack to retain heat and weighted down with a stone. Nearby, women were preparing a meal of breadfruits to complement tinned fish.
Nestled under a warm sun, the team made their way to one of the thatched huts on-site to prepare their breakfast. The landscape had undergone considerable transformation from its neglected past, now featuring landscaped grounds, stone walls, signage, steps, and drainage systems around the springs. The addition of open-sided bures provided shade and seating for visitors, complete with informative signs detailing the geological aspects of the springs.
Historical records indicate that American geologist James D. Dana provided the first scientific description of the Savusavu hot springs in 1864, based on earlier reports from the United States Exploring Expedition. Dana’s observations mentioned five boiling springs, which he referred to as “boiling fountains.”
Travel writer Constance Gordon-Cumming, in 1876, noted “three springs with intermittent fountains,” while another observer, botanist John Horne, described boiling jets reaching up to 30 cm in height. British surgeon and geologist H.B. Guppy reported in 1898 that Savusavu’s hot springs exhibited geyser-like behavior, ejecting jets of water 12 to 18 meters high intermittently for several months.
In later years, notable geothermal activity was recorded in 1958 and 1961, with significant water spouts observed in and around Savusavu. However, in recent years, the springs have largely ceased to reach the impressive heights recounted in historical accounts, and their activity has diminished, with pools sometimes draining briefly before refilling.
The Sunday Times team found that their eggs cooked perfectly in just ten minutes, while breadfruits were also prepared. Ratu Kamikamica, a local resident, emphasized the importance of maintaining the cleanliness of the springs, which serve as a valuable resource for cooking root vegetables and meat.
Nakama hot springs are not only an economical cooking option for residents but also contribute to the town’s tourism appeal. Many locals rely on the natural resource for meal preparation, especially when conventional cooking fuels run low. Efforts to beautify the hot springs, supported by the Commonwealth Local Government Fund, have solidified their status as a key tourist attraction.
Visitors can marvel at the vapors rising from roadside springs, creating a mystical atmosphere. Restaurants in Savusavu, such as the Three Yokes Café, utilize the hot springs for cooking, enhancing the flavors of popular dishes like beef soup.
In conclusion, the Nakama hot springs of Savusavu continue to be a cherished geological wonder, deeply entrenched in the local culture and economy, fostering a sustainable approach to cooking and tourism.