When Europeans arrived in Fiji in the early 1800s, they learned from the local Fijians that the Nakama hot springs in Savusavu had existed for ages. For many generations, these geothermal springs have been used for various purposes, particularly for cooking food without any flames or sparks.
Recently, a team from The Sunday Times visited Nakama with the goal of preparing a simple breakfast, following the traditions of Savusavu residents who have utilized these springs for years. A taxi ride costing three dollars took the team from town to the secluded area known as Nakama Road.
The road led them to the three-star Hot Springs Hotel, which offers stunning views of the clear harbor. It was a relaxing spot perfect for a break between interviews and a bus ride scheduled for Buca Bay. Our taxi driver remarked, “You haven’t been to Savusavu if you haven’t visited these hot springs.” He suggested cooking something in the hot pools to experience what the locals have long enjoyed.
Unknown to the driver, the team carried a red shopping bag filled with eggs, tea buns, Tang juice, cold water, and a tin of baked beans. Upon arrival, they found a pot already sitting in one of the pools, covered with a brown sack to retain heat and weighed down by a stone. Nearby, women were preparing breadfruits for later with canned fish, tomato sauce, and onions.
With the sun rising overhead, they moved to one of the three thatched sheds to prepare breakfast. The hot springs have seen significant improvements over the years, now featuring landscaped areas, stone walls, and informative signage explaining their geological significance.
Historical records indicate that in 1864, American geologist James D. Dana first scientifically documented the Savusavu hot springs. His observations included descriptions of several boiling springs resembling “boiling fountains.” Subsequent visitors noted the intermittent jetting of hot water for several decades, with reports of geyser-like eruptions in the late 19th century.
The hot springs’ more recent history includes occasional dramatic eruptions recorded in the 1950s, yet today they no longer reach the heights documented in earlier accounts. Instead, the water occasionally lowers momentarily before re-emerging, creating a unique natural phenomenon.
The team’s eggs cooked within ten minutes, while the local community continues to appreciate the hot springs for their versatility in cooking. Ratu Kamikamica stated the importance of keeping the springs clean as they are crucial for cooking root crops and providing an eco-friendly alternative to fuel. The Nakama hot springs remain free for use, serving locals and visitors alike.
Thanks to recent renovations funded by the Commonwealth Local Government Fund, the hot springs have evolved into Savusavu’s primary natural attraction. Visitors can witness vapors rising along the foreshore, creating an enchanting atmosphere, and many local eateries, like Three Yokes Café, benefit from the geothermal cooking, which reflects sustainable business practices.
Families often rely on the springs for meals and as an alternative cooking method when other fuel sources are depleted. “We consider ourselves fortunate to have them,” said local resident Sera Dautau.
In 2019, a survey revealed the presence of additional undersea hot springs near Nawi Island, while others are also located near Labasa and Savusavu. However, Savusavu stands out as Fiji’s most active geothermal area, thanks to its nearby fault lines that allow for heating and the emergence of hot springs.
This account aims to share the rich history of the Nakama hot springs, and those with differing perspectives are encouraged to share their stories for inclusion.