When Europeans arrived in Fiji during the early 1800s, indigenous Fijians informed them that the Nakama hot springs in Savusavu had existed for ages. These geothermal springs have been utilized for various purposes over the years, particularly for cooking food without using any flames.
Recently, a team from The Sunday Times traveled to Nakama, aiming to prepare a simple breakfast using the traditional cooking methods cherished by the residents of Savusavu. A taxi ride costing three dollars transported them from the town to the scenic Nakama Road, leading to both the hot springs and the nearby three-star Hot Springs Hotel, both of which offered stunning views of the clear harbor.
As the team reached the hot springs, the taxi driver emphasized that one hasn’t truly experienced Savusavu without visiting these springs. With various breakfast ingredients packed, including eggs, tea buns, Tang juice, cold water, and baked beans, they were eager to cook and enjoy the experience.
Upon arrival, they found a pot already cooking in one of the pools, covered to retain heat. Nearby, local women were seen placing a bag of breadfruits into another pool for later use. As the sun shone overhead, the team settled into one of the newly improved thatched shelters equipped for visitors.
Generations prior, the hot springs had been neglected, but significant enhancements have transformed the area. Now, guests can enjoy landscaped surroundings, stone walls, signage, and amenities that provide shade. Informative displays explain the geology of the springs.
Historical accounts date back to 1864, when American geologist James D. Dana provided the first scientific description of the springs, noting their five boiling sources that resembled “boiling fountains.” Travel writer Constance Gordon-Cumming described similar activity in 1876, and botanist John Horne documented the jets of water in the late 19th century. Notably, in 1898, British surgeon H.B. Guppy observed that the springs behaved like geysers, capable of shooting jets up to 18 meters high for short intervals.
Despite a decline in the springs’ geyser-like activity in recent years, they remain crucial to locals who utilize them for cooking root crops, meats, and other foods—saving energy costs and providing a unique feature for tourism. The hot springs are accessible at no charge, serving as a natural and eco-friendly cooking option.
Encouraged by recent improvements with assistance from the Commonwealth Local Government Fund, the Nakama hot springs have become a significant tourist destination. Visitors can witness vapors rising along the foreshore, creating a whimsical atmosphere. Several local eateries, including Three Yokes Café, also incorporate the springs in their cooking processes, promoting sustainable practices.
Families often depend on the hot springs for their meals, especially when alternative cooking methods fail. With ongoing surveys indicating more geothermal activity in the area, many residents express gratitude for the unique resource.
Savusavu is recognized as Fiji’s most active geothermal location, benefitting from three major fault lines that facilitate the emergence of hot springs—a natural treasure that continues to enrich the lives of the local community.