The Girmitiyas, despite being far from their homeland of India and facing oppression through the indenture system, remained steadfast in their religious beliefs and cultural practices. Their hardships only strengthened their resolve to sustain their traditions for future generations.
Recently, a team from the Sunday Times journeyed along the rough Sawani-Serea Road to the village of Serea in the scenic Naitasiri province. Their aim was to visit the remnants of a Hindu temple established by the Girmitiyas in the early 1900s, located on the village’s outskirts.
The team met with Sarojni Devi, a descendant of the village’s early settlers, who continues to inhabit the land worked by her ancestors and proudly identifies as a member of Serea. To gain access to the temple ruins, a traditional ceremony known as sevusevu was conducted with the village’s chief and traditional landowner, Na Gone Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi. He graciously escorted the team to the site of the temple and Ms. Devi’s home.
About 500 meters from Serea, alongside a thriving dalo farm owned by Raynil Kumar, locals pointed out the remnants of a once modest Hindu temple. According to community members, it was erected as a primary worship place for Girmitiyas who migrated to Serea from Kiuva in Tailevu. Ratu Viliame Ravuilagi noted that it might be one of the oldest structures in Serea, recalling, “When I was born, the temple was already here. Indo-Fijians would gather to worship there. It was a hub of community and tradition.”
After a short walk through dense vegetation, the team reached the temple site. The tranquil setting, nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains, evoked a sense of mysticism. Ratu Viliame explained that as Indo-Fijians built their homes and personal shrines, they ceased gathering at the temple, leading to its current dilapidated state.
Sarojni Devi, also known as Tinai Vaseva, still lives close to the temple ruins. Originally from Naitata, Navua, she has embraced life in Serea since marrying Shiu Narayan, a dairy farmer, in 1968. At 78, she reflected on the challenges faced by the Girmitiyas and recounted their deception into boarding ships from British India, enduring a grueling three-month journey, and experiencing the harsh realities of colonial labor in an unfamiliar land.
While some Girmitiyas returned to India, most stayed in Fiji, becoming integrated into the country’s social fabric and contributing to its growth. “We are grateful for the love and acceptance we’ve received over the years. Up here in Naitasiri, even though we are two races, we are one people,” she expressed.
Growing up in remote Serea, farming, especially dairy production, was vital for sustenance. Shiu Narayan established a dairy business that prospered and provided for their family. After his passing in 1987, Sarojni maintained the farm with support from local iTaukei landowners, with her eldest son stepping in to help.
Sarojni’s family has since diversified, with some members running shops and others relocating abroad. She honors her late husband’s legacy by caring for their home and land. “The natives of Serea are my blood as well. They have kept me safe and treated me like one of their own. I love Serea. This is my home, and it will sustain me and my family for generations,” she stated with warmth and pride.
As a reminder, the perspective on history varies among different groups. The intention of publishing one viewpoint is not to create division or disrespect other narratives. Those with alternative accounts are encouraged to share their stories.