Standing tall among a range of frigid peaks, K2 in Pakistan justifies its title as the “savage mountain.” Throughout history, countless climbers have been captivated by the world’s second-highest mountain, reaching 8,611 meters above sea level; however, only a select few have successfully summited it.
Known for its severe weather and harsh conditions, K2 remains a top destination for dedicated climbers. One of those who dreamt of conquering this formidable mountain is Yolanda Xue Chen.
Originally from China, Ms. Chen has spent the last ten years living in Fiji. Last month, the 37-year-old accomplished her goal of summiting K2, overcoming several obstacles along the way. The resident of Pacific Harbour, who has a background in international economics and trade, referred to K2 as her “dream mountain.”
“I believe it is every mountaineer’s dream,” Ms. Chen remarked. “As a woman, we are achieving the same heights as men on the mountain. I wanted to demonstrate that women can be just as strong as men on K2.”
Ms. Chen’s journey into mountaineering started with her involvement in the China Adventure Association, where her interest blossomed through trekking. It was upon exploring the Himalayan range that she discovered her passion for the mountains.
The majestic landscapes inspired her deeply, leading her to pursue a goal of climbing the world’s 14 “eight-thousanders,” peaks exceeding 8,000 meters tall. K2 marks the sixth of these mountains that Ms. Chen has summited, having previously conquered Manaslu, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga, and Everest.
Climbing these heights, however, is fraught with risks. The dangers of mountaineering range from health complications to navigating the “death zone” above 8,000 meters, where oxygen levels are perilously low. As a result, many climbers carry supplemental oxygen, which adds additional weight and challenges to their ascent.
Ms. Chen acknowledged that her family is often concerned for her safety due to the inherent risks of extreme sports. “They worry about my safety, especially knowing that teammates sometimes don’t return from climbs,” she shared. Communication is limited during her climbs, often leaving her family in the dark for one to two months.
To enhance her chances of a safe return, Ms. Chen trains diligently to maintain her physical condition. This year’s K2 expedition was no different, as she joined an international team. Describing the trip as a “super marathon,” she faced rock and ice climbing challenges.
“The weather was poor this year; it was so windy that my group couldn’t even reach Camp One, forcing us to wait at base camp for an extended period. We finally made the summit push on July 24 and reached the top on July 28,” she explained.
On summit day, the conditions were surprisingly favorable, with clear skies and no wind. “I was overwhelmed with excitement when I stood on K2’s summit, especially since I was carrying the Fiji flag. I cried tears of joy.”
Ms. Chen recounted some unforgettable experiences during her climb, including a moment when she sacrificed her oxygen tank for a teammate’s well-being. Remarkably, she summited without supplemental oxygen but faced health challenges afterward, including headaches and nausea on the way back to base camp.
“I was the only team member who returned to base camp without using supplemental oxygen,” she noted. Tragically, she also mentioned the death of two Japanese climbers who took a different route to the summit.
Such incidents highlight the risks inherent in mountaineering, and Ms. Chen has faced her share of near-fatal experiences. One of the most harrowing occurred during her attempt on Dhaulagiri in Nepal in 2022 when an avalanche nearly claimed their lives.
“At camp three, an avalanche hit, and we narrowly escaped death. It was the first time I confronted the reality of mortality,” she recalled.
Despite the dangers, Ms. Chen remains focused on achieving her ultimate goal: summiting all 14 eight-thousanders. She also aims to raise awareness about climate change and the need to protect the environment.
“Where there are challenges, there is motivation. I want to inspire others with my experiences,” she stated. “I hope to guide Fijians in climbing the world’s tallest peaks, and to other women who aspire to join this journey, I want to emphasize that the world is evolving, and women can be incredibly strong.”
When she’s not climbing, Ms. Chen enjoys reading, cooking for her family, and spending time with her pets. “I’m thrilled to leave home, knowing I’m venturing toward the mountains, but I always miss home when I’m up there. It’s a constant cycle.”