Bananas played a significant role in trade and commerce in the Naitasiri province during Fiji’s colonial era. The Sunday Times team recently traveled to the village of Serea, which is surrounded by the lush greenery and mountains of Naitasiri, after a challenging drive along the Sawani-Serea Road.
Upon arriving, the team presented a traditional sevusevu to Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi, the Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, which allowed them to freely explore and document the village’s historical sites, guided by Ratu Viliame himself.
The entrance to the village features the rundown remnants of a once-thriving village enterprise established by Sukh Lal, the son of a Girmitiya. Ratu Viliame shared that Sukh Lal’s mother passed away when he was an infant, leading an iTaukei family from Nawaisomo to adopt him. This bond influenced Sukh Lal’s later life in Serea.
He recalled that Sukh Lal’s business, which began modestly, grew to considerable wealth as he capitalized on the booming banana trade in the region. This shop transformed into a vital business hub for Naitasiri in the early 1900s, supported by several cooperative businesses that owned extensive banana plantations throughout the province.
Serea’s strategic location along Sawani-Serea Road and along the banks of the Wainimala River made it a key stop for travelers and farmers. An enormous raintree near the village and Sukh Lal’s shop served as a landing point for rafts that transported freshly harvested bananas, enhancing the local economy as farmers completed their sales on-site.
The shop offered an extensive range of goods, including groceries, fuel, and even had a billiard table. A tailor from Bombay also set up their business within Sukh Lal’s premises, contributing to the vibrant atmosphere.
Ratu Viliame reflected on this as a prosperous time for the province, but noted that following Fiji’s independence in 1970, rapid modernization forever altered Naitasiri’s landscape. The decline of the banana trade began with the construction of new roads, leading to urban migration and the neglect of local farms. Moreover, excessive fertilizer use affected soil quality, causing a decline in banana production.
As roads became the preferred transportation method, the Wainimala River lost its significance, and Serea’s role as a commercial center dwindled. Sukh Lal eventually passed his business to his sons and moved to Tailevu, where he later died.
The once vital raintree landing is no longer what it used to be. Ratu Peni Rotacikalou pointed out that the tree was cut down last year to be transformed into a lali for the village church, with a local carpenter currently completing the project.
Despite the river no longer being the main transportation route, it continues to provide sustenance to the community. However, Ratu Peni expressed concerns about the impact of gravel extraction, dredging, and climate change on the river’s health, noting its diminished state compared to the past.
The villagers are committed to preserving their environment through sustainable farming practices. Though Sukh Lal’s shop no longer exists, it remains a symbol of how collaboration between diverse groups in Fiji can foster community prosperity in even the most remote areas.
Acknowledging that history can be interpreted in various ways, the publication encourages those with differing accounts to share their perspectives to ensure a comprehensive understanding of the past.