During Fiji’s colonial era, bananas played a significant role in trade and commerce within the Naitasiri province. The Sunday Times team recently visited the village of Serea, located amid the rich landscapes and mountains of Naitasiri, following a challenging one-and-a-half hour drive along Sawani-Serea Road.
Upon arrival, the team presented a traditional sevusevu to Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi, who graciously allowed them to explore and document the village’s historical sites, offering a guided tour himself.
The visit highlighted the remnants of a once-thriving village enterprise founded by Sukh Lal, the son of a Girmitiya. Ratu Viliame explained that after losing his mother as an infant, Sukh Lal was raised by an iTaukei family from Nawaisomo, which helped him integrate into the community. He eventually settled in Serea, where he became an influential figure.
Ratu Viliame described the early 1900s as a prosperous time for Sukh Lal, whose small shop evolved into a bustling business hub, mainly driven by the flourishing banana trade. Many local cooperatives owned vast banana plantations across Naitasiri, making Serea a key stop for farmers and traders due to its strategic location along the Sawani-Serea Road and the Wainimala River.
The area thrived as farmers transported bananas via rafts, selling their produce in Serea and subsequently purchasing goods from Sukh Lal’s store, which offered a wide variety of products including groceries, diesel, and even had a billiards table. A tailor from Bombay, known as Patel, also established a shop in Sukh Lal’s premises, contributing to the local economy.
However, following Fiji’s independence in 1970, modernization altered the landscape of Naitasiri. Ratu Viliame noted that as roads developed, the banana trade suffered, leading many to migrate to urban areas and leaving farms abandoned. The introduction of chemicals and fertilizers also degraded soil quality, further diminishing banana cultivation.
As transportation routes shifted away from the river, Serea experienced a decline in commercial activity, and Sukh Lal eventually left the business for his sons to manage, relocating to Tailevu before passing away in Wainivesi. Over time, the raintree landing in Serea has changed significantly, with local leaders opting to carve the old tree into a lali for their church after its removal.
Ratu Peni Rotacikalou, a representative from the village, emphasized the lasting importance of the Wainimala River, which continues to support the community despite losing its role as a vital transport route. Nevertheless, he expressed concern about the river’s health deteriorating due to gravel extraction and climate change impacts.
Despite these challenges, villagers commit to sustainable farming practices and the preservation of their environment. The legacy of Sukh Lal’s shop remains a testament to the unity between Fiji’s diverse communities, showcasing the potential for prosperity driven by collaboration.