In the colonial era of Fiji, bananas played a significant role in the trade and commerce of Naitasiri province. A recent visit by The Sunday Times team to the village of Serea, located amidst the scenic landscape of Naitasiri, highlighted this historical aspect.
Upon arrival, the team participated in a traditional sevusevu ceremony with Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi, the Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro. Following this, they were granted the opportunity to explore and document various historical sites in the village under the guidance of Ratu Viliame.
One of the notable remnants in the village is the deteriorating structure of a large enterprise established by Sukh Lal, the son of a Girmitiya. This shop was a center of commercial activity in the early 1900s. Ratu Viliame shared how Sukh Lal, who lost his mother as an infant, was raised by a local iTaukei family and eventually settled in Serea, where he built his business.
Initially a small operation, Sukh Lal’s shop thrived as he capitalized on the booming banana trade in the region. Ratu Viliame recounted how many cooperative farms owned vast banana plantations throughout Naitasiri, with Serea’s strategic location making it an essential hub for transporting produce. Farmers would bring large quantities of freshly harvested bananas to Serea, where financial transactions occurred before the goods made their way to markets.
Sukh Lal’s establishment offered a wide range of goods, including groceries, fuel, and even had a section for liquor and a billiard table. It also hosted a tailor from India, known for crafting high-quality clothing. Ratu Viliame painted a picture of prosperity during that time, suggesting it was a golden era for Naitasiri.
However, the banana trade began to decline after Fiji’s independence in 1970. The construction of new roads allowed easier access to urban centers, leading many farmers to abandon their lands. Additionally, overreliance on fertilizers harmed the soil quality, impacting banana production.
As transportation along the Wainimala River diminished, Serea’s commercial significance waned. Ultimately, Sukh Lal shifted his business operations to his sons and moved to another location.
Today, remnants of the historical landing site where goods were transported can be found, although much has changed. Ratu Peni Rotacikalou, Ratu Viliame’s son, noted that the significant raintree nearby was cut down last year to be repurposed for their village church.
Despite changes over the years, the Wainimala River remains vital for the community, although its health has been compromised by environmental challenges. Villagers are actively engaged in sustainable farming practices to preserve their environment.
While Sukh Lal’s shop no longer stands, its legacy highlights the potential for prosperity through unity and cooperation in the community, demonstrating how different cultures can collaborate for mutual benefit.