Bananas played a significant role in trade and commerce in the Naitasiri province of Fiji during the colonial era. After driving for an hour and a half along the rough Sawani-Serea Road, a team from The Sunday Times reached the village of Serea, surrounded by the province’s lush landscapes and mountains.
Upon their arrival, the team presented a traditional sevusevu to Ratu Viliame Rarogaca Ravuilagi, the Turaga na i Taukei Waimaro, who then allowed them to explore the village and document its historical sites, including receiving a personal tour from Ratu Viliame.
An unmistakable sight in the village is the weathered remains of a once-thriving enterprise founded by Sukh Lal, the son of a Girmitiya. Ratu Viliame and his family have maintained the remnants of this vital commercial structure from the early 1900s.
Ratu Viliame shared that Sukh Lal lost his mother at a young age and was raised by an iTaukei family from Nawaisomo. He eventually settled in Serea, where he built a successful shop that transformed into a bustling center of business due to the area’s booming banana trade.
“He started small but became wealthy as the banana trade flourished,” Ratu Viliame recounted, noting that cooperative businesses owned extensive banana plantations throughout Naitasiri. The riverside village’s strategic location along the Sawani-Serea Road and the Wainimala River made it a key stop for travelers and farmers looking to transport their goods.
Large rafts carrying bananas would arrive in Serea, where transactions occurred and farmers would spend their earnings at Sukh Lal’s shop, which offered a wide variety of goods and services. From groceries and supplies to a tailor’s shop run by a skilled craftsman from India, the store catered to the needs of the community.
According to Ratu Viliame, this period marked a golden age for Naitasiri, but the landscape shifted after Fiji’s independence in 1970. The growth of new roads led to a decline in the banana trade, as people migrated to urban areas and agriculture diminished due to soil degradation from over-farming methods.
As the strategic advantage of the Wainimala River faded with changing transportation routes, Serea’s commercial prominence waned, leading to Sukh Lal’s eventual departure from the business, which he passed on to his sons.
Ratu Peni Rotacikalou, Ratu Viliame’s son, took the team to the former landing site on the Wainimala River, which had been significantly altered over time. A decision was made to carve a significant raintree into a lali for the village church, preserving a part of its history.
Despite the river’s condition deteriorating due to human intervention and climate change, locals are committed to sustainable practices to protect their environment. They continue to nurture their rivers and engage in responsible farming.
While Sukh Lal’s shop may no longer exist, it remains a symbol of unity and prosperity among Fiji’s diverse communities, illustrating how collaboration can lead to progress even in remote regions. The complexities of history are ever-present, and the account shared is not meant to overshadow other narratives; those with differing versions are encouraged to share their perspectives.